- Written By Team DWS
- Gemstone Manufacturing
- February 13, 2026
The Gem Story: How DWS Jewellery Selects and Crafts Every Stone
Gemstones are nature’s poetry — formed through millions of years of geological magic, each carrying unique color, energy, and character. At DWS Jewellery, gemstones are not just accents; they are the soul of every creation.
Located in the heart of Jaipur, India — the world’s gemstone capital — DWS Jewellery has perfected the art of gem selection, cutting, treatment, and craftsmanship. Every stone that finds its way into a DWS design tells a story of precision, passion, and ethical responsibility.
This in-depth journey reveals the meticulous process behind DWS Jewellery’s gemstone mastery — from sourcing raw stones to the final sparkle that captivates global markets. Whether you’re a jewelry designer, retailer, or gem enthusiast, understanding this process illuminates why DWS remains a trusted name in international jewelry manufacturing.
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Jaipur: The Eternal Gemstone Capital
Jaipur’s connection with gemstones is legendary. Known as the Pink City, it’s also the global hub for gemstone cutting and trading, processing over 80% of the world’s colored gems.
For centuries, Jaipur’s artisans have mastered techniques that transform rough stones into brilliant jewels. Today, this heritage fuels DWS Jewellery’s ability to deliver gemstone excellence at scale.
DWS benefits from:
- Direct access to global gemstone mines through established supply chains.
- Generations of gem-cutting expertise within its artisan network.
- State-of-the-art gemological laboratories for quality assurance.
- Strategic location in Jaipur’s gemstone district, surrounded by cutting houses and markets.
This ecosystem allows DWS to maintain control over every gemstone journey — from mine to masterpiece.
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Step 1: Responsible Sourcing — The Foundation of Quality
Every gemstone story begins with ethical sourcing. DWS Jewellery prioritizes traceability, fair trade, and environmental responsibility in its supply chain.
Global Sourcing Network
DWS sources gemstones from premier locations worldwide:
- Diamonds: Conflict-free suppliers certified under Kimberley Process (Africa, India, Australia).
- Rubies & Sapphires: Ethical mines in Myanmar, Thailand, and Madagascar.
- Emeralds: Colombia, Zambia, and Brazilian deposits.
- Semi-Precious Gems: India, Brazil, Madagascar, and Africa.
Verification and Certification
Every rough stone undergoes initial verification for origin, authenticity, and ethical compliance. DWS works with certified suppliers and maintains detailed sourcing records for transparency.
This rigorous approach ensures that customers receive not just beautiful gems but jewelry with a clear conscience.
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Step 2: The Art of Rough Stone Selection
Not every gemstone is destined for jewelry. Expert gemologists at DWS evaluate rough stones using:
Physical Assessment
- Color: Natural vibrancy and depth.
- Clarity: Balance between inclusions and transparency.
- Size: Proportionality for jewelry design.
- Shape: Potential for optimal cutting yield.
Advanced Testing
- Refractive Index: Measures light-bending ability.
- Specific Gravity: Confirms authenticity.
- UV Fluorescence: Detects treatments or enhancements.
Only the finest rough stones are selected — those with the greatest potential to become brilliant, wearable gems.
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Step 3: Gemstone Cutting — Where Science Meets Art
Cutting transforms rough stones into faceted jewels. At DWS, this critical stage combines traditional Jaipur techniques with modern precision technology.
Planning the Cut
Before touching a stone, cutters create a digital blueprint using 3D gemstone scanning. This planning:
- Maximizes weight retention.
- Optimizes light performance.
- Preserves the stone’s best color zones.
- Ensures symmetry for setting.
Cutting Techniques
DWS employs multiple methods based on stone type and design requirements:
- Faceting: For maximum brilliance (diamonds, sapphires).
- Cabochon: For smooth domes and asterism (star sapphires, opals).
- Rose Cut: Vintage style with flat bottom and faceted dome.
- Bead Drilling: For pearl-like gemstone beads.
Precision Equipment
- Automated Lap Machines: For consistent facet angles.
- Laser Marking: For perfect symmetry guides.
- Dop Sticks: Traditional wooden holders for manual finishing.
Each facet represents hours of skill — a testament to the cutter’s artistry and patience.
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Step 4: Polishing and Bruting — The Shine Emerges
Polishing brings out a gemstone’s fire, brilliance, and scintillation. DWS uses graded polishing compounds and diamond-tipped laps to achieve mirror-like surfaces.
The Polishing Process
- Coarse Polishing: Removes cutting marks.
- Fine Polishing: Achieves optimal light reflection.
- Final Buffing: Creates perfect surface luster.
Bruting (Girdle Rounding)
The girdle — the stone’s edge — is rounded for smooth setting and durability. This step requires exceptional precision to maintain proportions.
Quality Metrics at this stage include:
- Polish Grade: Excellent, Very Good, Good.
- Symmetry: Perfect alignment of facets.
- Proportions: Ideal depth and table size for light performance.
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Step 5: Gemstone Calibration and Grading
Before setting, every gem undergoes calibration — ensuring uniform size, shape, and weight across production batches.
Calibration Process
- Dimensional Matching: Ensures identical dimensions for pavé and channel settings.
- Weight Verification: Consistent carat weight within tolerance.
- Color Matching: Uniform hue and saturation for multi-stone designs.
Professional Grading
DWS gemologists grade stones using GIA-inspired standards:
- Color: Based on hue, tone, saturation.
- Clarity: Eye-clean to VVS standards.
- Cut Quality: Excellent light return and proportions.
This rigorous process guarantees batch consistency — crucial for wholesale and private-label manufacturing.
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Step 6: Ethical Enhancements and Treatments
Modern gemology offers treatments to enhance natural beauty. DWS discloses all treatments transparently:
Common Enhancements
- Heat Treatment: Improves color in sapphires, rubies (disclosed).
- Oil Filling: Stabilizes emeralds (standard industry practice).
- Diffusion: Color enhancement in sapphires (fully disclosed).
- Surface Coating: Temporary color enhancement (noted in documentation).
DWS Transparency Standards
Every treated stone receives documentation specifying:
- Treatment type and extent.
- Stability and care instructions.
- Disclosure for resale value.
This ethical transparency builds lasting trust with global customers.
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The DWS Gemstone Collection: Diversity and Specialization
DWS Jewellery’s material diversity reflects its global market expertise. Here’s a spotlight on key categories:
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Precious Gems: The Crown Jewels
Diamonds
- Natural and lab-grown options.
- Precision-cut for maximum brilliance.
- Conflict-free with certification.
Rubies
- Burmese and Thai origins.
- Pigeon-blood to cherry red hues.
- Heat-treated for optimal color.
Sapphires
- Royal blue, pink, yellow varieties.
- Heat and diffusion treatments disclosed.
- Star sapphires for mystical appeal.
Emeralds
- Colombian and Zambian sources.
- Oil-filled for clarity preservation.
- Rich green hues with natural inclusions.
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Semi-Precious Gems: Colorful Creativity
DWS excels in vibrant semi-precious collections:
- Amethyst: Deep purple, calming energy.
- Aquamarine: Sea-blue tranquility.
- Citrine: Golden abundance.
- Garnet: Deep red passion.
- Peridot: Lime green vitality.
- Topaz: Blue, imperial, mystic varieties.
- Tourmaline: Rainbow hues and watermelon varieties.
These gems offer affordable luxury with high visual impact.
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Healing Crystals: Wellness and Fashion
DWS’s crystal jewelry taps into global wellness trends:
- Rose Quartz: Love and compassion.
- Clear Quartz: Clarity and amplification.
- Labradorite: Transformation and protection.
- Moonstone: Intuition and feminine energy.
- Lapis Lazuli: Wisdom and truth.
Each crystal is ethically sourced and minimally treated to preserve natural energy.
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Organic and Unique Materials
DWS also incorporates:
- Freshwater Pearls: Luster and organic elegance.
- Mother of Pearl: Iridescent shell beauty.
- Prehnite: Rare apple-green gem.
- Sunstone: Sparkling aventurescence.
These materials add diversity and exclusivity to collections.
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Advanced Setting Techniques: Securing Perfection
The journey doesn’t end with cutting. Expert setting ensures gems remain secure and brilliant:
Precision Setting Methods
- Prong Setting: Maximum light exposure.
- Bezel Setting: Maximum protection.
- Pavé Setting: Dense sparkle coverage.
- Channel Setting: Seamless alignment.
- Invisible Setting: Gem-on-gem illusion.
- Micro-Setting: Ultra-fine pavé for modern designs.
Technology-Assisted Setting
- Digital calipers for perfect stone fit.
- Magnification systems for micro-precision.
- Laser drilling for tension settings.
Each technique is chosen based on gem type, design, and wearability.
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Quality Assurance: The Final Frontier
Before any gemstone enters production jewelry, it passes multi-layered quality control:
Gemological Laboratory Testing
- Spectroscopy: Chemical composition verification.
- UV/Vis Analysis: Treatment detection.
- Magnification Inspection: Internal flaw assessment.
Functional Testing
- Setting Security: Stress tests for prongs and bezels.
- Light Performance: Brilliance and fire evaluation.
- Color Stability: Resistance to fading or heat.
Documentation and Certification
Every significant gem receives:
- Origin certificate (where available).
- Treatment disclosure.
- Quality grading report.
- Batch matching records for wholesale consistency.
This documentation provides complete transparency for B2B and retail customers.
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Sustainability in Gemstone Crafting
DWS Jewellery integrates eco-conscious practices throughout the gemstone process:
Waste Reduction
- Precision cutting minimizes material loss.
- Recycled cutting water systems.
- Gemstone powder repurposed for industrial use.
Energy Efficiency
- Solar-powered cutting facilities.
- LED lighting in gem labs.
- Energy-efficient polishing equipment.
Community Impact
- Fair wages for gem cutters and polishers.
- Skill training programs for women artisans.
- Child-labor free supply chains with verification.
These practices align with Sedex SMETA 4-Pillar certification, ensuring ethical excellence.
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Custom Gemstone Services for Global Brands
DWS’s gemstone expertise extends to B2B customization:
Private Label Gemstone Collections
- Matched gemstone sets for consistent production.
- Exclusive color palettes for brand identity.
- Signature cuts branded for designers.
Special Projects
- Rare gemstone sourcing for limited editions.
- Custom gem calibration for complex designs.
- Gemstone trend forecasting based on market analysis.
This flexibility makes DWS a preferred partner for international jewelry brands.
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The Future of Gemstone Craftsmanship
DWS Jewellery continues to innovate gemstone artistry:
Emerging Technologies
- AI-powered gem grading for consistency.
- 3D-printed gemstone molds for complex settings.
- Blockchain traceability from mine to market.
New Materials
- Lab-grown colored gems for sustainability.
- Synthetic-organic hybrids for unique effects.
- Advanced crystal treatments for enhanced energy properties.
Market Trends
- Wellness gemstone jewelry expansion.
- Gender-neutral gem designs.
- Sustainable luxury positioning.
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Conclusion: Gems That Tell Stories
At DWS Jewellery, every gemstone carries a narrative — of geological wonder, human artistry, ethical responsibility, and timeless beauty.
From the moment a rough stone is selected to the final sparkle under showroom lights, each step reflects Jaipur’s gemstone legacy elevated by modern mastery.
DWS doesn’t just craft jewelry — it curates gemstone experiences that connect wearers to the earth’s deepest treasures. Whether a single carat diamond or a vibrant tourmaline collection, every stone represents a commitment to excellence without compromise.
In a world of mass-produced sparkle, DWS Jewellery offers something rare: gems with provenance, passion, and purpose.
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